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Case Studies

Manufacturing Supply Chain Country Profiles: Turkey

Praised for its high-quality clothing and quick turnaround time, Turkey is an attractive player in the garment manufacturing industry. It provides for a number of big European and Western clothing brands, to whom Turkey, although more expensive, is preferential over East Asian suppliers. But like the majority of the garment industry’s key players, Turkey is vulnerable to the abuses of Western brands, rendering human rights violations inevitable.

It-girl of garment industry

Producing around $56 billion of apparel each year, Turkey’s garment manufacturing industry is booming. As of 2019 it has become the fifth largest clothing exporter in world. The industry employs over 1.5 million people and is the country’s second biggest exporter.

 

At the beginning of 2020, Turkey found itself in a profitable position, as China faced production delays of up to six months due to the coronavirus outbreak. Turkey lapped up the diverted orders, predicting its exports to rise by 10% during the pandemic. Despite order cancellations and parts of the industry grinding to a halt at points in 2020, reports suggest the garment sector has so far championed through the pandemic.

 

But what has made Turkey the it-girl of garment manufacturing?

 

Firstly, Turkey benefits from a thriving cotton industry and produces its own wool and polyester. This means the entire manufacturing process can occur in one country, from the sourcing of the raw materials to the stitching on of the buttons. For brands, this cuts costs as they do not need to import any materials to the country of manufacture.

 

Secondly, Turkey’s garment industry knows no bounds. It produces a wide range of products from shoes and accessories to swimwear and lingerie. There are no limits to garment manufacturing here.

 

Finally, the industry has developed a reputation for producing high quality clothing quickly and is willing to produce small orders, rather produce in excess. For European buyers, the clothing is close, cheaper to import and good quality.

Human Rights Issues

But like all garment suppling countries, Turkey’s clothing manufacturers are vulnerable to the pressures of the industry, sacrificing the wellbeing of their work force to comply with demand.

 

Brands constantly seek cheap labour and take advantage of countries like Turkey where labour laws are not duly implemented.

 

The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre found that a constant push for lower prices and brands’ excessive power over their suppliers, fuels abuse in the labour supply chain. Suppliers are often offered short contracts and impossible deadlines, forcing workers to work over time, face severe job insecurity and manufacturers to outsource production.

 

The majority of Turkey’s garment industry is made up of small and medium sized businesses who are encouraged to compete for the cheapest and quickest production when bigger companies outsource. The pressure to produce cheaper clothing quicker means cutting wages and forcing over-time.

 

The biggest issue in Turkey’s garment industry is the prevalence of a large unregistered and informal workforce, particularly within these smaller, less regulated businesses. An estimated 60% of Turkey’s garment workforce is unregistered. Unregistered workers do not have access to their full rights and will not be protected under Turkish labour laws.

 

Refugees arriving in Turkey have found themselves with no protection and no support, forced to accept low paid jobs with excessive hours. In 2017, there were reportedly 650,000 Syrian refugees working informally in the Turkish garment sector.

 

Turkey has the opportunity to expand its garment industry into a force for social good. Better regulating its workforces, Turkey can provide millions with a decent work. It doesn’t need to stop hiring informal workers, but make them formal. Brands need to pay better so they can do this.

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Championing ethical fashion extends beyond exposing human rights violations, and into promoting socially, environmentally and culturally sustainable practices.

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